Giuseppe Canclini was born in 1900 in Colico, a village on Como Lake. He was young man with a lively mind from a modest family when he was sent to the seminary to complete his education, as was customary back at that time. Giuseppe soon stood out showing an innate creativity and resourcefulness: he was fond of music, he was able to play the accordion and the piano and was passionate about hunting and skeet shooting. He could also speak fluent English which for the time was a quite exceptional skill! He attended a course as a textile mechanic in Feltrinelli, but his most important experience was at the Omita company in Albate, leading company in northern Italy specialized in textile mechanical engineering.
There he learned to build the first shuttle looms. Aware of his own technical abilities and thanks to his business-oriented spirit, he decided to set up his own business in 1925 at the age of twenty-five, founding Canclini company.
He started in a shed in Caccivio, rented by his father-in-law, where he assembled the looms to weave silk and where he was warping the yarns which he then home-delivered to the weavers in town. Once back in the factory, the greige were checked and sent to the best dyeing mills in Como to complete the process. At that time already about forty looms could be counted. The products were silk fabrics for making underwear for women; the beautiful sets were bought mainly by customers from Tuscany where Florence represented the most important market, with clients such as Macora and Schimtz & Lombard.
As man who lived on the cutting-edge, he soon understood how important the quality of the raw material was. His aim was to be able to control the entire textile chain and as such he trod several different paths both to South America and to southern Italy to find out how to grow mulberry trees and breed silkworms on his own. An ambitious project, that despite those trips did not accomplish, can certainly still be considered precursors of modern and globalized society and management.
The war period despite some difficulties was prolific for Canclini company that was able to convert its production to make parachutes. Parachutes had very peculiar and challenging technical requirements, nowadays managed thanks to the modern man-made fibers and technologies: Canclini company made it possible by weaving the fabric with an equal number of threads and picks giving the fabric compactness to withstand the atmosphere without letting air through. This project contributed to Canclini success on the market even in such a critical period as the 1940s.
After the war, in the decade 1955-1965, Canclini’sons Vittorio and Giancarlo also joined the company. Vittorio took responsibility for the technical-creative unit, while Giancarlo took over the commercial and administrative office that was open in Como.
Silk scarves and historic jacquard dressing gowns, Canclini’s DNA, made Como famous all over the world. With pride and a pinch of nostalgia the satin stripe scarves that were sold very well throughout the Italian market: from various converters in Como, to the already established Florence, up to the emerging Neapolitan tailors. Among the most important brands we can remember Novelli.
The flagship item of those years, however, was the silk fabric for shirting that let the company take the first step towards abroad, exporting to Germany, France, and especially to Denmark. The close collaboration between Vittorio, Giancarlo and the Danish commercial agents was essential to establish a crucial working relationship.
At the beginning of the 1960s the new factory was built and gave birth to the first weaving mill that today is still operational as a warehouse.
The looms were no longer handled by external professional weavers, but the entire process was managed by the mill in Lurate Caccivio thanks to warping and weaving facilities with shuttle looms, jacquard and the first Saurer rapier weaving looms.
The commercial and administrative department was moved from Como to Lurate Caccivio around the Seventies joining the production plant.
It was around 1975 that the company decided to specialize in cotton shirt fabrics, rather than silk. It was instinct and desire to diversify to stand out in a thriving but crowded market, as Como silk market was. Looms were converted into looms for cotton, both shuttle and jacquard. At a point where almost all companies were procuring the same looms and competitiveness was already extremely challenging, creativity, entrepreneurial skill and passionate dedication could make the difference for such an organization and make it a leader among its competitors. The decision to switch to cotton fabrics proved to be a winning one: the company began to exhibit and participate in many business exhibitions such as “Interstof” in Frankfurt, “Premiere Vision” in Paris and “Moda In” in Milan. Among the most important customers to mention, Cassera and Cinquini, both from Bergamo.
The market was undoubtedly changing. Strategies had to keep up and been planned on different new levels: from a commercial perspective exports became crucial and export targets moved to many more other European countries; from a stylistic and creative point of view more related to the products and their presentation to the market, the message to convey to more educated customers looking for new ideas and inputs had to chance as well. Mauro Canclini, Vittorio’s son, joined the company eager to kick off a new narrative with the first collection presentation, as we know it today.
In fact, the beginning of the nineties witnessed the second generational change when Simone and Mauro joined the Canclini company. In these years Canclini company expanded its presence on international markets all over the world based on a strong international sales network. This brought the company to be seen as a reliable, credible and important partner to work with and rely on for high-end shirting fabrics.
Even today designers admired all over the world, prestigious clothing brands and historical tailors who perpetuate the refined art of bespoke men’s tailoring such as Alfred Dunhill, Aquascutum, Hugo Boss, Brioni, Christian Dior, Ermenegildo Zegna, Eton, Etro, Hackett, Hermes, Isetan, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada, Sand are among our most valuable and historic customers.
Export Sales to customers from over one hundred countries represent about three quarters of the total turnover about one fifth of which is dedicated to investments in new technologies and process to live up to new trends and products. Besides that extreme importance is given to the choice of raw materials, the best cottons and the finest yarn counts in the world.
The value for money recognized and appreciated by the most business players has been rewarding: in these years of important changes, in fact, Canclini has strengthened historical partnerships and, at the same time, acquired new customers looking for reliable partners.
Canclini’s innate passion for work, dynamism, creativity and continuous innovation have made it possible to realize the dream to be an anchor in quality, style, service, research and innovation in the production of Italian shirting fabrics. Canclini aims for the future to be even more open to the market and customer requests, placing itself as a guarantor of quality and style by combining research, cutting-edge technology and decades of experience.
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Through the partnership with circular.fashion, the company can actively participate in achieving the common goal of the circularity of the textile industry. Circular.fashion is an organization created with the aim of ensuring transparency and traceability of products throughout the entire textile production chain, from the producer to the final consumer. The Circularity.ID therefore allows the organization to identify textile products, approving them as suitable materials to support a circular recycling and Upcycling process. Thus, the potential of the organization is further oriented towards the connection between the producer and the future company for textile recycling. The Regenerated Canclini fabric has been analyzed and recognized as a sustainable fabric and suitable to be chosen as a weave or textile component in circular projects, being able to re-enter the production processes at the end of the use phase. In addition, with this choice, Canclini therefore has the possibility of facilitating the transparency of the production chain, allowing the customer and the final consumer to know the value of their product by means of the information document issued by the organization and which faithfully accompanies it.
OEKO-TEX: STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is an independent international control and certification system for raw materials, semi-finished and finished products in the textile sector at every level of processing, as well as for the accessory materials used. Since 1992, the main purpose of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is the development of verification criteria, limit values and test methodologies on a scientific basis. Thanks to its ten-years experience, the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® helps to ensure a high and effective product safety from the point of view of the consumer. The verification criteria and the limit values are far more demanding than the valid national and international parameters. In-depth product audits and periodic company audits also make it possible to sensitize the industry to the responsible use of chemicals in the long term and on a global scale. This concept has for many years played a dominant role in the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®. The OEKO-TEX® controls of toxic substances are mainly designed considering the intended use of fabrics and materials. The more intense the contact of a product with the skin, the more sensitive it is, the more strict human-ecological requirements to be met. Canclini obtained OEKO-TEX® certification Product class II: articles used in contact with the skin (shirts, underwear, bed linen, t-shirts, socks, etc.)
The Better Cotton Initiative is an association created to make the global production of cotton better for the people who produce it, better for the environment in which it grows and for the future of the sector, developing Better Cotton as a main sustainable product. BCI is an association formed by producers, intermediaries and non-profit groups operating in USA, Pakistan, India, Brazil and Africa. This is an activity that involves 10 million people only in Africa; realizing projects directly with farmers and farmers has allowed to reduce the use of water and pesticides in percentages between 30 and 50. It is therefore a cooperation experiment along the production chain, from upstream to downstream, whose pivot it is the direct work with the peasants. “There are millions of farmers around the world who can significantly improve their cultivation processes,” says Lise Melvin, BCI executive director. “We want the exploitation of the land to be sustainable and to allow cotton growers to continue their activities in the future, at the same level as today”. The Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund makes strategic investments in Better Cotton projects, supports and invests in innovations, while promoting the adoption of the Better Cotton Standard System by governments, trade associations and other entities. Canclini has decided to adhere also to this philosophy that has as its motto: Be part of something better!
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is promoted internationally by the Textile Exchange , provides for the release of an environmental declaration verified by a third party that validates the content of natural fibers from organic agriculture in textile products (both intermediate and finished) and guarantees traceability along the entire production chain of raw materials, intermediate products and finished products. All textile products that are composed of at least 5% of certified organic natural fibers can be certified according to the OCS standard . The following aspects do not fall within the scope of OCS , therefore they are not subject to verification:
Quality requirements of the material
Safety features of the material
Environmental performance and impacts associated with production processes Social criteria .
The OCS standard applies to all textile manufacturing processes starting from gymnastics, followed by spinning, weaving and all subsequent ennobling processes.
Global Recycle Standard (GRS), certifies products obtained from recycled materials and manufacturing activities. It enhances products made with recycled materials, in compliance with environmental and social criteria extended to all stages of the production chain. Global Recycle Standard (GRS) is promoted by Textile Exchange, one of the most important no-profit organization that promotes international responsible and sustainable development in the textile industry. With this standard, Textile Exchange acknowledges the crucial importance of recycling for the growth of a sustainable production and consumption model; it aims to encourage the reduction of resource consumption (virgin raw materials, water and energy) and to increase the quality of recycled products.
GRS CANCLINI COTTON
The regenerated cotton yarn is produced with a low environmental impact: the water consumption is zero, and the photovoltaic plant that the company owns covers the energy consumption necessary to regenerate it. We want to interpret a new lifestyle and a new way of working and producing.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) refers to an international standard used for the certification of natural fibers and which includes ecological and social criteria. It consists of an independent certification system of the entire textile production chain. Canclini Bio fabrics are 100% organic certified according to GOTS standards and have the following characteristics:
The organic yarn purchased from certified GOTS producers.
The raw yarn is dyed in GOTS certified dyers, using chemical products in accordance with the regulations imposed by the GOTS standard.
The weaving and finishing phases take place in establishments that have obtained the GOTS certification, which machines are used for biological fabrics only, so that no contamination takes place.
In the transport phases, both the yarn and the biological fabric are insulated with a special packaging to avoid external contamination.
Before and after processing, the GOTS product is stored in appropriate areas for organic use.
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Mario Rossi/Tessitura S.p.A. – Milan – Canclini1925, Profilo Tessile